Pedaling again
Amtrak’s Cardinal line looked like it would get me close to the TransAm. By some rough estimations, I figured it would take me two days of riding to return to my route. I couldn’t get off the Cardinal at any ol stop though. I had to debark the train somewhere that had checked luggage service. My bike. The whole reason for doing this it sometimes seems. Also, I needed to reassemble my bike, and I wasn’t sure what kind of challenges I might or might not encounter. It would be helpful if there were a bike shop in whatever town I landed in. As it turned out, Charleston, WV met all the criteria.
A little shopping around revealed that the only lodging that wasn’t in a chain hotel was the one and only bed and breakfast in town. With rates comparable to the chains, it seemed the likely choice, and it came with proximity to the state capitol as well. Right on.
I caught a cab from the train station to the Brass Pineapple. Happily, my bike had arrived with me, and it fit in the back seat of the cab. My original thought was to put the bike together that night, but I soon set that idea aside. The train arrived at 9 p.m., and I’d been up since 3:20 a.m. with only a few moments of anything that could be considered a nap. I didn’t want to lose a piece of my bike in the dark or in an unthinking state of mind. Plus, the B & B looked great. I wanted to spend some time there.
Nice historic house with amazing wood floors and woodwork. They’d creatively arranged bathroom and sink facilities in the room, making use of what I can imagine would have been a closet over the stairs. The downstairs bathroom had a similar set up, and they sunk a short, deep bathtub in at floor level. For a house that probably only had one bathroom to begin, how they made it work impressed me.
I was so tired and the bed so cushy and comfortable, I just pulled the feather bed up around where I’d nested among the pillows. I’m generally particular about having my head down to sleep, but when I’m totally surrounded in a soft, mushy nest, head down becomes irrelevant. In the morning, I opened my eyes to the alarm and went downstairs to start working. Writing. I wanted to post first. Big change getting back on the bike. I met the other guests in the house, pleasant people all of them. One couple described the history of town a bit. Charleston grew on salt mining before shifting over to other economic mainstays and experienced its heyday in the mid to late 1800s. The state was sympathetic to the Union causes and didn’t want to secede when other southern states took their stand.
When I was done writing, I zoomed to my bike and opened the box. I pulled out the frame. A coil of cable fell to the ground.
“Oh man. Did they undo the cables? I’m not sure I know how to put those back on. I’ve seen people do it several times, but I’ve never learned. Hmmmm.”
I called the bike shop.
“I just came into town on the train with my bike and need to assemble it. I’m not sure I have enough skill to get it together. Do you have time to do such a thing?”
“The soonest we could have it done would be tomorrow afternoon.”
“Hmmm. Well, maybe I’ll just work on it and see how far I get.”
“You can always bring it by if you need help with something.”
“Ok. Thanks.”
I went back out and looked at what I had.
“I can do this.”
I looked at the brakes and shifters. Everything was connected.
“Maybe they just replaced the brake cable in St. Louis and put the old one in the box. They put the new tire on the wrong wheel though. I’m going to have to get a new tire before I leave town.” The front tire still had huge slices in it. I had no idea what the rear tire looked like. Maybe it looked bad like that too.
I put my bike back together methodically. “I can totally do this.”
I hurriedly dressed in my cycling clothes and packed my panniers.
Oh it felt good to be on the bike.
I followed directions Steve (of the Brass Pineapple) had given me to the bike shop. I ended up on a busy street that didn’t really have a bike lane. It had a foot-wide segment from the curb to the white line that had storm sewer grates every 20-30 feet that took up the entire lane. These grates would have eaten my bike alive. I’d gone about eight blocks when I pulled over at a mailbox and called the bike shop.
“Where do people ride in this town? Do you ride on the street? The sidewalk? I don’t want to get squashed.”
“Get on one of the side streets. One block over should work. We’re ten more blocks down.”
I found the shop easily, got a new tire, and had the guys at the shop install it. I looked around at what they had.
“Do you have many women cyclists here?”
“Yeah. There’s a ride for MS coming up.” That didn’t exactly answer my question, but it kind of did.
I asked someone else about the best way to get to Elkhorn City by bike. “Google bike directions say to take 119 pretty much the whole way. It looks like a big road.”
“Yeah. That’s pretty much your only option. It’s a big road with a nice berm on it. Once you pass Logan you’ll be in Hillbilly territory. I think the berm is paved the whole way, but you’ll have to watch for debris. After Logan, it’s No Woman’s Land. People are generally pretty nice. You’ll have coal trucks to deal with and the occasional people who’ll give you a hard time.”
“It’s kind of like that everywhere.”
“Well, be safe, and have a good time.”
“Maybe it’ll be ok.”
I had another hill to get out of the parking lot. My seat moved around again.
“No, this isn’t going to work. Fix it now, you don’t know when you’ll be around the kind of supplies you need.”
I was riding through the big box center outside of town. Looked like all the large footprint stores had to locate about four miles out of town. At the top of the hill I saw a Home Depot.
“Surely they have a bolt that will work for this.”
I wheeled my bike into the fastener section and tried and tried to find something that would work. I got close, but not close enough. Eventually I caught the attention of an orange-aproned guy to help me find what I couldn’t find on my own. From the bolt I found that was too short, he found one too long and then struck gold with one right between the two. Yes!
With my seat finally stable and the hour twenty after three in the afternoon, I continued on my way down the highway. Soon, I didn’t feel well.
“Now what?”
I stopped at the first gas station I saw.
“Whew.”
I hadn’t eaten lunch and hadn’t hydrated much either. The previous day on the train I basically ate and drank nothing.
I drank a liter of water and a V-8. “Maybe that will help.”
Maybe it did help, but my body was having none of it and continued complaining. I wanted to get down the road, get some more miles in. Not gonna happen. I decided to stop at the next town. I pulled in looking for lodging. I didn’t see any. Google. Finally I found a spot just down the street from where I was. Not where I would have thought of looking for a motel, but there it was.
I went into the restaurant that also served as the motel office.
“Do you have a room for one for tonight?”
“Don’t tell me this is the air freshener here.” Sometimes the cleaning products people use make a place smell disinfected…sort of…but usually they just make a room smell. I was less than excited and the smell did nothing to make me feel better. I felt worse. I looked around the room. It looked like there was a powder sprinkled all over the floor.
“Do they have fleas and left the flea powder on the floor? That’s creepy.”
I took a shower although I didn’t feel like I was doing myself much of a favor getting clean in that place. I didn’t want to step on the floor. Feeling rather tired and out of balance, I went to the restaurant where I’d checked in. Google said the menu had a variety of things from American fare to Mexican and Healthy. I looked at the actual menu in front of me and wondered where the missing pages were. Everything was fried.
When my dinner came out, it looked like Brendan’s favorite meal: French fries and chicken tenders.
The waitress said something to the effect of, “Is this what you ordered?”
I looked at it thinking I ordered chicken and potatoes, “It could be.”
When I checked out at the register, the same woman who’d given me the room key asked, “How was everything?”
“It was ok. But the room I’m in…I think there’s mold growing on the floor. It smells really musty in there. Is there some way to get some air?”
She talked to the motel owner and came back. “Would you like another room?”
“If that’s possible, yes, I would.” I couldn’t imagine how I would relax enough in the room I was in to get some restful sleep and feel better in the morning instead of worse. I’d probably be puking by midnight if I stayed in there.
She gave me another key and I checked out the room. It had a distinct smell too, but the place wasn’t moldy, and it would work just fine.
I fell into a deep sleep and woke at two something in the morning from a dream of being pregnant.
“Drink water.”
I downed half a liter of water and fell back asleep.
I wanted to leave early in the morning and get the miles in before the day heated up. I had a serious hydration mission and spent my time downing water. The sky stayed dark late. Now that it’s almost September, a 6 a.m. departure puts you on the road in the black of morning. I still don’t want to ride in the dark. I waited another hour and then got moving in the early morning fog.
The next town about 15 miles down the road, Chapmanville, proved an excellent spot to stop for a hot chocolate. While drinking cocoa, I noticed the local paper had a story that Oprah had been to the town of Williamson earlier in the week. She’d done a story in 1987 on a gay man with AIDS who lived there. She came back to check in. While I was getting my technology in order before I got back on my bike, a nice man pulled up.
“Where are you from?”
“Oregon. Where are you from?”
“Here, in West Virginia.”
We had a nice, quick chat. He got back in his truck, “Go Ducks.”
“Yes!” Now, I’ve never been one of those people with loads of school spirit, and I’m not a sports fan either. Frankly, I don’t care for sports. It could have been the unpleasant experiences I had in grade school and junior high when I tried to play team sports. Story for another time. Or, maybe I’m just not wired to care much about that kind of thing. The conflict of man vs. nature has always had considerably more appeal to me than man vs. man – or so I learned in sixth grade when we were studying Jack London and To Build A Fire.
I had in mind to get breakfast in Logan. When I got up to it, the mess of chains and big box stores on the highway were a total turnoff. The next exit showed Logan off the main highway. I kept going. Williamson. I could make it there. From one of the towns, Williamson was 50 miles down the road, maybe it was Danville where I started. I didn’t know. I didn’t have a map. I couldn’t find a map in Chapmanville that I wanted, but that’s probably because I was spaced out, not thinking clearly. By the time I reached Williamson, I needed to check in. At the bike shop, the guy had mentioned Pikeville, and that came up on the signs along with Williamson. I just wasn’t sure though.
Right before Williamson I started crossing into Kentucky. I never crossed back into West Virginia (according to the signs), so it surprised me a bit when I saw West Virginia on the window signs in downtown Williamson. I found a coffee shop next to a bookstore and went in there. Everyone looked at me. I tried to feel normal and walked to the counter.
“Our lunch special today is spaghetti.”
“What kind of sauce does it have on it?”
“Shmsihmnisl.”
“What kind of sauce?”
“Meat sauce.”
“Oh. Ok. That sounds good. What kind of tea do you have?”
“Sweet.”
“I mean hot tea.”
“We can make it hot.”
“Do you have Earl Grey or anything like that?”
“No.”
“Any black tea at all?”
She called someone in from the kitchen and the two of them started lifting and shaking the eight tea tins. “All we have is organic green.”
“That sounds great. I’ll have that too.”
I chuckled a bit at the meat sauce. It was kind of like sloppy joe on a bed of noodles. Everyone in the coffee shop had gotten spaghetti. That, more than anything else, I found most notable.
Two men in nice shirts and slacks came in, one with a computer. “What are you riding?”
“A bicycle.”
“What kind? We ride too?”
I chatted with them a bit, Matt and Jeff (or was it Mark?). They work in the pharmaceutical industry and ride and compete in triathlons. I appreciated encountering some bike-friendly folk in West Virginia. Mostly I felt like everyone was looking at me weird.
“You’re brave to be out by yourself.”
“I suppose. It feels pretty normal to me.”
I stopped at a gas station to look at some maps. I was headed the right direction. Pikeville was definitely on the way. All good. Thirty miles to go from Williamson. As soon as I turned onto the highway, I crossed the Kentucky State Line sign. I was so surprised by it that I simply passed it. “I’ll find another one.”
Even though the mountains had been cut down and the valleys spanned with bridges, I had some good climbs in those thirty miles. I came upon a sign to Pikeville, 15 miles. I continued. Up, down, up, down, up, down. Another mileage sign ahead. “Surely I must be in the single digits by now.” I got closer, and it looked like double digits when I was hoping for 9 or 8 miles. “15 miles! Wait a minute. Well, fine. 15 still isn’t that far.” Up, down, up, down, watch out for the debris.” The mile posts were going steadily down. It looked like I had a major climb and descent every mile. Fatigue was setting in along with heat and road weariness. I’m not sure I can do 15 more of these.
Pikeville 8 miles.
“Ok, we’re on our way.”
I passed another sign. Pikeville 7 miles. “What? Ok, fine, 7 miles.”
Up, down.
Pikeville exit, 1 mile.
“Yeah, I made it! I knew there was something screwy out there.”
I couldn’t wait to get off the freeway. Town did not come into view easily though, and I asked directions from someone parked at a bank – a nice man who’s front teeth were rotted off at the gums. He directed me to downtown Pikeville where I came square into the visitor’s center, Pikeville College, the expo center, central park, and post office. I couldn’t find the lodging though. I called a place that sounded reasonable and got directions I couldn’t follow. I ended up back on Google to figure out how to get to the motel. And, I ended up back on the freeway. No way around it, my motel is on the freeway.






















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